Summer Climbing in the Cairngorms

Head out with Callum to the Cairngorms for my first time summer climbing. We where having a bit of a late student style start of the day meeting at 11 but as it was so hot to walk in without a top Hay hoo. We went to Coire an t'Sneachda to Aladdin's Buttress. There as still a bit of snow about but all the climbing where dry and looking amazing! First up was the Three Star The Magic Crack. It really is a good as crack climbing can be. The third pitch is just great and wish it keep on going for a fuel 60m.

Blue Sky

 

Tops off walk in!!

Phone pic top

The first crack



The amazing third pitch!

Next up was Edgewood witch is great too! Nothing to hard moves ways but gear when you wanted it and just enff of a run out to keep it fun. It was Callum's first E1 and it was a multi pitch one too. He was chill as and will be sending more of the grand soon I think.

So E1 hay?

 

Callum on the first 5a pitch

 

Taking us to the top

 

Ben Nevis Girdle Traverse

Last Tuesday Ewan and I tried to do the Girdle Traverse on Ben Nevis. We had a plan of bivving out the night before at the CIC hut then an early start the next day. On the walk up the track on Monday evening things where feeling great. Tops where off as it was still hot from the day. After a sweaty walk we made it to the CIC hut and the Ben was looking good. As soon as we stopped the midges came out, it was going to be a good nights sleep. We had both gone for a different approach on what to sleep in. Ewan was going for just a sleeping bag and mat as the weather was looking good over night and I had gone for just a bivvy bag, sleeping bag liner and mat. Safe to say not the best night sleep you could hope for before a long day of climbing. 

Loving the walking in the sun

Sunset over CIC track

Bed for the night

Looking forward to sleep

Waking up to see that it was 3.55am was the greatest feeling as the morning coffee could be had. After a good helping of porridge for breakfast and coffee time to make the walk in. We had a bit of a way to go as we started pretty much on CMD. So a nice warm up for the day. Getting up to the start or should I say where we think it started form. The guide book description was not the best. We started climbing at 6.15am so the adventure had begun and it was looking like it was going to be a long day. Moving across the face we knew that we wanted to be on the second tiers of North East Buttress to put us on the right level to cross Orion Face and get over Point 5. Pretty much guessing my way on the lead. Getting to North East Buttress we could see right over to The Gap and where we could have a food stop but on for now. The ground we were on was lose and slimy in bits so having to stay switched on all the time. This was going to be the theme for the day. It had taken us a lot longer to cover the ground fast. Although this was meant to be the crux of the route, getting to Point 5 and crossing it.

Where do you think we are head? © Ewan McKay

The adventure starts

Still happy

Looking over to Tower Ridge from the top of Orion Face

Move lovely ground to cross © Ewan McKay

Crossing Point 5

Crossing Point 5 was not as bad as we thought it was going to be. Although getting there we realised that we were meant to be on a lower shelf and the only way to get there quickly was to do two abseils down. This was to be off a nice old peg and nut. Sadly as I was the heaviest I got to test them first. Getting down the abseil then to find a nice size block (Ewan's face says it all in the photo below) for the next abseil off Ewan got to test this one first.

Old peg and nut abseil © Ewan McKay 

Nice block abseil or the face of fear

Getting down to the top of Tower Scoop we had to cross a nice snow slope as Ewan was in boots he got the job of making me steps to walk in. He used a nut key to plunge into the snow for support (more in the mind than being actually useful). Although I did follow suit. Getting over the snow a quick climbing up to Tower Gap for a post of food. By time we got there it had gone 11am so not doing to bad on time as we not too sure where we were going. Looking at the next half was going to be a long slog. Next came an abseil down Glovers Chimney which turned out to be very fruitful finding £20. Ewan now leading the way around to Number 2 Gully. So far in the day we had sunshine sadly it was not to last. Mid way down the face the cloud came in and visibility was not good. To make this even better the ground we where on was the worst of the day being wet, slimy, lose and just all about bad. Somehow we picked a way down to the gully. Getting to the gully the cloud was still down and we decided to bug out as Ewan liked to put it. As we where not too sure on where the route goes for the second half. 

Going down Glovers Chimney © Ewan McKay 

Glover's Chimney

Onward to Number 2 Gully

Cloud come down 

Just about see me © Ewan McKay

Nice wet rock

Where are we going now? © Ewan McKay

Walking down Number 2 it started to rain so in a odd way made me happy that we called it. Although it was short lived as when getting to the CIC hut the cloud and rain had stopped. It was all most looked like it could be lifting. Maybe we should have waited it out and not just gone. But I guess its what you think is right at the time. This does mean we will be going back again to get it done.

On the way filmed bit of climbing and and thoughts of what the climb was like.

Ben Nevis Girdle Traverse from Mark Chambers on Vimeo.

Blog up date

Its been some time seen up dating this. Been a made time with uni finishing for the summer, climbing, biking and even a bit of real world work.

Before all that madness started had a great trip to France with UHI Mountaineering Club. A week on none stop banter and climbing now and then. Nice to be able to enjoy sunny climbing weather. We mangered to climb all but for one day. Thanx Sally Hudson for some of the photo.

Great craging in the sun

Sam enjoying the sun

What to do on a wet day in France.  © Sally Hudson

Le tube neural the best route of the trip for me. 

The Team. © Sally Hudson

Next up after that was time to work on reports for uni so not to much got done outside. Got the odd evening out to Heather Hat with Rach and on the bike up to Nevis Range/Cow Hill. The summer start with uni all finished. The first summer fun was a over night ride at Laggen Wolftrax. Head out after work for a couple of laps of the Upper Red and Lower Red. Then a fun ride down the Orange. The a night in the 5* van accommodation with a morning ride before Rach had to be at work.

Rach enjoying the even sun 

A worn out whippet

Last Run for the evening

The next this to do was to get out climbing. Head out with Ewan to Sheepfall Wall in Polldubh Crags. A bit of a mad days as we walked in with the sun out looking like it could be to hat. Too end climbing in a mix of passing shower and gusts of wind. We got on with it anyway as it Scotland after all. There was some great climbing there. Ewan getting on Gambit** a nice climb is a bit green in place, then getting on Sheep Fank Direct*, Sheep Fank Wall* and Bardhinaghi**. With me getting on the other star route of the crag Tonis* , Pay No Poll Tax* (did like the name of this climb) and Haul*. All great climbing if feeling a bit wild in bits like.

Gambit S**

Tonis HVS 5a*

Sheep Fand Direct HS*

Sadly back the real word for a work at UK Gravity Enduro for The Billy Can. A mad week with great weather in Hamsterley. That then lead on to a week of biking with meet Andy starting off going to Hamsterley to do the Red and Black routs. Great fun with not to big climbs and the downs where wall wherth it.

At the top

The we head on to Dalby Forest. Wicht we where not so happy with a lot off pedalling for not much downhill fun. So on to the Peaks District to Glossop. The best day of the trip. Was meant to be of a epci day but my knee was giving me pain so we cut it down. End up doing along the Pennine Way for some fantastic technical ride.

The Climb

Lunch spot

The Way we came

Just about at the end

Not good

Getting back to the Fort. Head out to High Crag with Ewan to do Autobahnasfahrt. The longst route in Polldubh. Great day for it nice a sunning loving summer cragging. Great climbing and toping out with a great view up and down the Glen

Enjoying the view

Been getting out on the bike for a trip out to Morzine going up the Glen with Rach. Then time for the Downhill World Cup. A great weekend and even great weekend for it seeing friend form Aberdeen.

Mad Riding

Sadly that seed like the end of the good weather but me and Ewan feel like trying Centurion on Carn Dearg Buttress. One of the best routes I have done on the Ben. Shame that it started rain a bit on the top pitch but still made it a great like.

Second pitch

Steeping out

Wet top pitch

Happy at the top

Had a GoPro on so made a short edit of it.

Climbing on the Ben from Mark Chambers on Vimeo.

The last day be for heading off for UKCC Level 1 Couch me and Rach head down to Kinlochleven. A good ride a bike of a long ride but with so great climbing and view. Just on of them ride I had a big smile on me face the hole way.

Getting to the top now

Time for down

Black water dam