Showing posts with label Sunny. Scotland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sunny. Scotland. Show all posts

16 Jun 2013

Blog up date

Its been some time seen up dating this. Been a made time with uni finishing for the summer, climbing, biking and even a bit of real world work.

Before all that madness started had a great trip to France with UHI Mountaineering Club. A week on none stop banter and climbing now and then. Nice to be able to enjoy sunny climbing weather. We mangered to climb all but for one day. Thanx Sally Hudson for some of the photo.

Great craging in the sun
Sam enjoying the sun
What to do on a wet day in France.  © Sally Hudson
Le tube neural the best route of the trip for me. 
The Team. © Sally Hudson
Next up after that was time to work on reports for uni so not to much got done outside. Got the odd evening out to Heather Hat with Rach and on the bike up to Nevis Range/Cow Hill. The summer start with uni all finished. The first summer fun was a over night ride at Laggen Wolftrax. Head out after work for a couple of laps of the Upper Red and Lower Red. Then a fun ride down the Orange. The a night in the 5* van accommodation with a morning ride before Rach had to be at work.

Rach enjoying the even sun 
A worn out whippet
Last Run for the evening
The next this to do was to get out climbing. Head out with Ewan to Sheepfall Wall in Polldubh Crags. A bit of a mad days as we walked in with the sun out looking like it could be to hat. Too end climbing in a mix of passing shower and gusts of wind. We got on with it anyway as it Scotland after all. There was some great climbing there. Ewan getting on Gambit** a nice climb is a bit green in place, then getting on Sheep Fank Direct*, Sheep Fank Wall* and Bardhinaghi**. With me getting on the other star route of the crag Tonis* , Pay No Poll Tax* (did like the name of this climb) and Haul*. All great climbing if feeling a bit wild in bits like.

Gambit S**
Tonis HVS 5a*
Sheep Fand Direct HS*
Sadly back the real word for a work at UK Gravity Enduro for The Billy Can. A mad week with great weather in Hamsterley. That then lead on to a week of biking with meet Andy starting off going to Hamsterley to do the Red and Black routs. Great fun with not to big climbs and the downs where wall wherth it.

At the top
The we head on to Dalby Forest. Wicht we where not so happy with a lot off pedalling for not much downhill fun. So on to the Peaks District to Glossop. The best day of the trip. Was meant to be of a epci day but my knee was giving me pain so we cut it down. End up doing along the Pennine Way for some fantastic technical ride.
The Climb
Lunch spot
The Way we came
Just about at the end
Not good
Getting back to the Fort. Head out to High Crag with Ewan to do Autobahnasfahrt. The longst route in Polldubh. Great day for it nice a sunning loving summer cragging. Great climbing and toping out with a great view up and down the Glen

Enjoying the view
Been getting out on the bike for a trip out to Morzine going up the Glen with Rach. Then time for the Downhill World Cup. A great weekend and even great weekend for it seeing friend form Aberdeen.

Mad Riding
Sadly that seed like the end of the good weather but me and Ewan feel like trying Centurion on Carn Dearg Buttress. One of the best routes I have done on the Ben. Shame that it started rain a bit on the top pitch but still made it a great like.

Second pitch
Steeping out
Wet top pitch
Happy at the top
Had a GoPro on so made a short edit of it.


The last day be for heading off for UKCC Level 1 Couch me and Rach head down to Kinlochleven. A good ride a bike of a long ride but with so great climbing and view. Just on of them ride I had a big smile on me face the hole way.
Getting to the top now
Time for down
Black water dam

27 Feb 2013

Two Twins

A great day out on Aonach Mor. Thow it was ormost sand bag. Last night at the Clachaig Winter Safety Lecture Mark asked if I fancy getting out on Green Gully. After being talked into we had a plan. I was to borrow most my gear from people at the talk and we where to meet at 7.30. We where on. Then in the morning things started to go a bit wrong. Someone else for head the Ben key and the ice screws we need. Time to change. After making some calls, got some screws from Ewan. We where back on and off to Aonach Mor. Gondola up and small walk to the top of Easy Gully to get the add into the crag.



How need to walk in.
Getting to the crag it was a bisy with fue teams on all the Twins but for Right Twin. Heading up it was looking ok.  When getting on the lead fond it to be wet as.... Got to the top belay ok and Mark made fast work of the last pitch.





Still had time we had back down Easy Gully and onto Forgotten Twin. This was not as wet as Right Twin as the sun had not be on it for much of the day. We head up looking to get the a balay and ended up soloing the route together. Most of the way having steps up.





Bouldering By Night and Cavalry Crack Buttress

Might have miss out on the great weather in the mountain but managed to get out to Polldubh for a bit of bouldering in the night and some trad routs. Head up on Sunday night after work for a bit of a night boulder with Dan and Ewan. Ewan and myself got Pagan Uilleann sent after a bit of work on the moves. The kneebar feels great now when it works. Moving off it is so easy love it.








Then Monday and Tuesday headed to Cavalry Crack Buttress with James to get on the lead. Did The Old Wall on Monday a great VS. As the guild book say "Protection is noticeably lacking" but what there is boomer and good holes to be fond all the way up. Form the top of The Old Wall James lead the top pitch of Heatwave.
Today we want back again with Storm being are tick to get sent. James was to do the first pitch and me the next two. After a triky start James beside to get go up the first pitch of Heatwave to get to the bottom of the long diagonal crack.




Getting to the ledge it was now my tern on the lead. The second pitch was great climbing to be had. Once at the pine to belay off. I brought James up, we beside to abb off as we did wan to get benighted up on the the last pitch. Will be back get it sent with the True Finish. Just hope the good weather comes back before the migges do.


18 Feb 2013

Sunny Afternoon

Sadly did not get out in the good weather all day today as had uhi in the morning. But made it out to Heather Hat with James and Rich in the afternoon. Had been beaten there by Dan. Who could not stay indoor either with the sun out. It was the first time that James and Rich had been to Heather Hat. Dan show them the problem on the right hand side of the roof to have a go on.

A sunny Glen
Working out the moves
Getting it now



Getting the mores now
Dan was working the Pagan Uilleann and managed to get vary close to getting it sent. Next visit it should go for his. Was working a link up from that start of Midnight in a Perfect World into the end of Under the Hat.

Getting the kneebar locked in
Into the pin scar
I did not get much do myself work a bit more of Pagan Uilleann. So the kneebar is sticking wall now just need to move off it and link it all up. Try a problem Dan show me sometime ago that comes up the left side of the roof to the jug. Them mores though the roof and out the front to top out. Not to sure on what the name is.

Moving off the jug
Pulling hard
Made the moves out but not much more then that. Need to work it a bit more. After that thought it would be a laugh to try Under the Hat. Worked out some bits and linked from the sit to the sloper rail. Thow the big move from there to the jug was just like going for the moon. Maybe one day but soon I feel.

Making it to the Sloper
Going for the jug
Just not getting it.
In the end Janes and Rich got all the moves worked out and looking like they where enjoying bouldering. Then Dan show how Midnight in a Perfect World is done to finish off him.

Chilling in the sun
Moving round the roof