Red Gully Split Shift Mission

So with working at Glenmore in the kitchen you have 7ish hour off in the middle of the day. Witch means if you fast you can get a route in Stob Coire an t-Sneachda. When it being amazing sunshine today it would have been mad not to make the most of it. 

Head in with Jack thinking of doing Fingers Ridge. But miss read the start and ended up the Red Gully. This did not work out as a bad place to send up as the ridge was white and would have been lots of digging. There was lots of people about climbing and skiing in the coire making the most of the great weather before the warming up over the weekend. 

T-Shirt for the walk in

Jack on the first pitch

Soler on Goat Track Gully

Jack coming up to the second 

What a nice sunset

Rivers, Holes and Climbing

Have had a bit of a busy week. Been getting out a far bit had a day on the Etive with Dave, Andy and Rory. It was the first time that Andy and Rory had been on the river and they had a great level for it of mid/high. It was a fun time with lots of laughs with one or two swims.

Upside down Monday on the Etive from Mark Chambers on Vimeo.

Then was meant to be Snow holing and the weather was not playing ball and ended up having a mix on indoor talks with a day digging the snow in amazing sunshine. Good to learn new skill for the hills in winter.

Sunnys for the walk in!!

The Croy one man digger

Mmm should be climbing!!

And this week have had two great days out climbing on the Ben. First on Observatory Ridge with Nathan and Brodie in the clouds but a fun route. Will be back to try it in the summer. 

Views from the day

Brodie seconded

Then yesterday on Italian Right-Hand and Central Gully Right-Hand with just Brodie. Bit of a change from the start of the year where I did all the leading and now Brodie bid all the leading of the ice. His come along way in the season!! As all his wanted to do at the start was climbing III but now sails up IV/V. Both the routes where great with worth the 3 stars that they get.

Italian Right-Hand

Better views today

Central Gully Right-Hand

Making it look easy 

Happy face!! 

The Ben Looking great!!

 Things look like there not going anywhere for sometime. Now just need to work out this ice climbing game…..

The Message and Honeypot

Had one of the best days winter climbing today!! Headed over east with Rich, Cam and Nathan. Rich and Cam were going for a wee ski about the place. Nathan and myself going into Coire an t'Sneachda with many plans as we where a bit late to the climbing party. On the walk in we did not see anyone on Mess of Pottage thought we had missed something. But as always in the east over a rise and there was everyone. We thought that we would have to settle for one of are other plans but all the teams where doing No Blue Skies, Opening Break, The Haston Line and Hidden Chimney Direct. Leaving us with The Message!! Woop woop. (Got to love the student start paying off sometime)

 Nathan had done the route in summer before and gave me the second pitch. Meaning he had a great start over blocky ground with great hooks to the bottom of the grove. This was a great start by its self. Then it was me up to the crux pitch witch was great. Just none stop cracks to hook in and gear where you want it. The hard move at the top had be going for a bit but pulled over it ok and a rest. Nathan so sailed up it and he lead off the last bit to the top. I can see easily why The Message get it 3 star. It have bit of everything that you want and it give is all the way to the top!!

At the top we had a bit more time before we had to be back at the car so head up Honeypot. I had done it 2 years ago but it was under a lot of snow!! This time a big change of little snow and good cracks to climb. Nathan again had the first pitch witch had a bit of a tricky start to it then eased off to the belay. Then onto the chimney and roof. It felt a wee bit thin for axe on the lower part with a bit more work looking for placements then I remember from before. Getting up to the roof I was a feeling it and had to think hard on what to do but made it over ok. Think am still needing to work up to being smooth at the grade. But was great to be pushing it a bit. Nathan again fired up with no problems and make it look easy as.

In the end a great day with to amazing routes done. Conditions for mixed climbing are amazing at the min no ice in the cracks. Now its going to be a busy March with uni and work. So not to sure on the next winter outing. Hopefully one more before it all goes.

Two days in the Clouds

Have day 2 good days out with on being on last friday with Nathan out on the Ben Climbing Thompsons Route witch like most routes of the Ben in great contoin. Tho getting to the climb was a bit trike with the low cloud but we found it will a bit of help for a team looking to get on Sioux Wall. Coming off the Ben was a bit of a mess as I dofo need to sort out my winter Nev!!! Some how managered to end up at the top of the Red Burn very lucky for sure. Other then this was lucky with a lifts up the Ben Track with Kev and Joe how where looking to get on Mega Routes X and then a lift back form the North Face car park with Will of was out with to poeple for Atlas Mountaineering.

Routes in there some where

Nathan coming up the first pitch

Nathan leading the last pitch 

Half way lochen looking nice int he even light

Yesterday head out to the West Face of Aonach Mor. Am not having much luck on the west face. Third time on the worry route. Was meant to be on Western Rib but end up on Daim Buttress with more IV then the III thats its mean to be. Still a great day out with a great ice pitch at the bottom with 2 mixed pitch to gain easier ground to the top.

Ewan on the Pitch

The evening looking like it could be a nice day

2 in 1 with a wee bit more

Head out with Ewan today. We had nothing really planned to do just opened mind on what was in. We stared off with the first pitch of Waterfall Gully as there was a team heading up to The Curtain. Witch was great but a bit sort lived.

Start of Waterfall Gully

Next headed back to The Curtain get on it and for Ewan to do a wee bit of leading (doing a very good Elvis). There was a other team on it so a chilled out bit of lunch be for getting on. The ice was all good but for some bad bits at the top. By now a another team had gone up Waterfall Gully and broke trail thought the snow on the upper pitchs. So back we when for the hole thing. Very snowy upper part but great feeling in the Gully.

Two Teams on The Curtain

Ewan on the lead

Looking about

There was a far number of people out for Monday. Teams on Shield Direct, Gemini, Tower Ridge and Vanishing Gully too name some. If things hold out like this then a lot to get out.

Last bit

Great end the day

CMD looking good in sunset

Skier enjoying the snow

Happy Ewan

Two Great Days

So have day to great days playing about. First day was out with my brother (John) for his first test of winter walking/climbing and Andy. We head to the West Face Aonach Mor to do Gendarme. But as I have fond before on the west face not on the right route. We where on a rib to the left witch still give great climbing of I/II. And the prefect thing for John's first day. There was a far bit of power about and made for a bit of a swim at times. Looked great for all the skier and borders out.

Looking like a bit of a swim

We are men with axes!!

Starting up the rib

John Loving the swinging his axe

The second day was out with a big crew of people from UHI Paddle Sports Club to head down the Arkaig. It was great to head so many people out good banter, swims, getting wet and a wee bit cold. This is a start of a week/2 week trip the club is looking to start running.

Kayak surfing

Classy Girls

Big crew

Playing on the wave!!!