Summer Climbing in the Cairngorms

Head out with Callum to the Cairngorms for my first time summer climbing. We where having a bit of a late student style start of the day meeting at 11 but as it was so hot to walk in without a top Hay hoo. We went to Coire an t'Sneachda to Aladdin's Buttress. There as still a bit of snow about but all the climbing where dry and looking amazing! First up was the Three Star The Magic Crack. It really is a good as crack climbing can be. The third pitch is just great and wish it keep on going for a fuel 60m.

Blue Sky

 

Tops off walk in!!

Phone pic top

The first crack



The amazing third pitch!

Next up was Edgewood witch is great too! Nothing to hard moves ways but gear when you wanted it and just enff of a run out to keep it fun. It was Callum's first E1 and it was a multi pitch one too. He was chill as and will be sending more of the grand soon I think.

So E1 hay?

 

Callum on the first 5a pitch

 

Taking us to the top

 

Cullin Ridge in a day!

Had a great week. Started off with a day assent of the Cullin Ridge with Nathan. How knows the way amazingly well so not much need for navigation even when the cloud come in. We did pretty much the hole ridge but for Gars Bheinn. To save a bit of time we missed it out but as we both where kaker by the end was a good plan. Tho it does mean will have to go back for the full thing. We did it in 12 hour 10 mins from van to pub. Not to bad for a first go.
 

Sunrise

 

Along way to go

Happy lad

Monday ended up climbing with Adam at Creag Dubh. This being the first time for me there. Got to get routes done King Bee and Erase. Dafo got the climbing psych back and feeling good on what might get done this summer.

 

Heading up the Bee

 

Bit of a wet second pitch on Erase

 

 

ML Assessment

Just had my ML Assessment last week. I sadly did not a pass but a deferral to get the logbook up to the level needed. Mike and kenni gave some great feedback all week. Not only assessing us but still giving bit of advice too. 

We had a mix bag of weather for the assessment form sunshine and cloud for the steep ground and... Then on owe 3 days exped mix of sun to start to full on rain and navigation inside a cloud. Safe to say that I not think there as a person waterproof that gave in it was that wet. Will not to head back to the hill to the east of Inverailort and special to the ridge of Druim Fiaclach.

Now need to find time to 10 more day in them that will be me holding my ML. 

Views on day one of the exped
exped

Things got very wet on day 2!

Busy times

So have been up to a lot seen the last post March. What has been going on?

Well had one more day out winter climbing with Ali where we did The Gutter, The Cascade and Expert's Choice. It was a great day to have as the last one of the session.

After this was a bit of uni to get back into. Then a exped in the River Spey for uni like. Had a mix of weather of sunshine to hail in the face. We even mannered to cut a day off as we where move fast on the water. Had the some solo time in the canoe.

Up next was a day down climbing in Glen Nevis. This was to get a climbing put to bed I had feline off back in September. This was the first time back up the climb. Warmed up on some other climbs first  then head to Hodad to get it sent. Its the first time that had to get my my head in the right place in a long time. Think I am going to have to put sometime into getting my trab head back. I did not think climbing would as hard to get back in but hay the mind is a odd thing.

On to the next advent of walking North end of Pennine Way with my brother. This was one of the best time I have day with my brother. Just me and him for 7 day. Well that was the plan ended up being 5 as him knees and shoes gave up before we wanted it to. Well have to do the hold Way at some point and think long walking could be cool thing to get into.

Then one more bit of madness as the Lass day on the UHI pabbe club meet on the Garry. This was the first time I had been out in my play boat. It was great fun and need make more use of it.

Now its time to get uni work finished and a lot of ML day to get ingot he bag too!! Then it will be freedom for the summer. Well time to start working for the summer. 

Rivers, Holes and Climbing

Have had a bit of a busy week. Been getting out a far bit had a day on the Etive with Dave, Andy and Rory. It was the first time that Andy and Rory had been on the river and they had a great level for it of mid/high. It was a fun time with lots of laughs with one or two swims.

Upside down Monday on the Etive from Mark Chambers on Vimeo.

Then was meant to be Snow holing and the weather was not playing ball and ended up having a mix on indoor talks with a day digging the snow in amazing sunshine. Good to learn new skill for the hills in winter.

Sunnys for the walk in!!

The Croy one man digger

Mmm should be climbing!!

And this week have had two great days out climbing on the Ben. First on Observatory Ridge with Nathan and Brodie in the clouds but a fun route. Will be back to try it in the summer. 

Views from the day

Brodie seconded

Then yesterday on Italian Right-Hand and Central Gully Right-Hand with just Brodie. Bit of a change from the start of the year where I did all the leading and now Brodie bid all the leading of the ice. His come along way in the season!! As all his wanted to do at the start was climbing III but now sails up IV/V. Both the routes where great with worth the 3 stars that they get.

Italian Right-Hand

Better views today

Central Gully Right-Hand

Making it look easy 

Happy face!! 

The Ben Looking great!!

 Things look like there not going anywhere for sometime. Now just need to work out this ice climbing game…..

The Message and Honeypot

Had one of the best days winter climbing today!! Headed over east with Rich, Cam and Nathan. Rich and Cam were going for a wee ski about the place. Nathan and myself going into Coire an t'Sneachda with many plans as we where a bit late to the climbing party. On the walk in we did not see anyone on Mess of Pottage thought we had missed something. But as always in the east over a rise and there was everyone. We thought that we would have to settle for one of are other plans but all the teams where doing No Blue Skies, Opening Break, The Haston Line and Hidden Chimney Direct. Leaving us with The Message!! Woop woop. (Got to love the student start paying off sometime)

 Nathan had done the route in summer before and gave me the second pitch. Meaning he had a great start over blocky ground with great hooks to the bottom of the grove. This was a great start by its self. Then it was me up to the crux pitch witch was great. Just none stop cracks to hook in and gear where you want it. The hard move at the top had be going for a bit but pulled over it ok and a rest. Nathan so sailed up it and he lead off the last bit to the top. I can see easily why The Message get it 3 star. It have bit of everything that you want and it give is all the way to the top!!

At the top we had a bit more time before we had to be back at the car so head up Honeypot. I had done it 2 years ago but it was under a lot of snow!! This time a big change of little snow and good cracks to climb. Nathan again had the first pitch witch had a bit of a tricky start to it then eased off to the belay. Then onto the chimney and roof. It felt a wee bit thin for axe on the lower part with a bit more work looking for placements then I remember from before. Getting up to the roof I was a feeling it and had to think hard on what to do but made it over ok. Think am still needing to work up to being smooth at the grade. But was great to be pushing it a bit. Nathan again fired up with no problems and make it look easy as.

In the end a great day with to amazing routes done. Conditions for mixed climbing are amazing at the min no ice in the cracks. Now its going to be a busy March with uni and work. So not to sure on the next winter outing. Hopefully one more before it all goes.