Two days over East

It's been a bit of a mad two days. Was meant to be heading over east with uni for 4 days of climbing, walking and maybe skilling. But with the bad weather forecast they besides to canals the trip. Witch was far to do.  I head over none the less to see if anything could be done. First day headed out with Ed to Coire an t'Sneachda, tho it did not start off well the snow gets where shut so meant a nice was up the road. Getting up to the car park we fond that some winter skill groups had made it up. Witch meant lots of people to brake trial. There where so big brief but easily avoid. We planed on doing Hidden Chimney but a team where heading up the direct. So as The Haston Line as it looking good. Climbing was great fun with tricky bits in places and needing small hips for bits too. On the walk off we meet the team that had been avalanche down the goat track so helped brake trial from them on way out. Bit of a lucky boy. Hope he gets better soon.

Along road ahead

Trail breakers

Ed on the first Pitch

The second head out with Lou and James. Lou has her MIC coming up in March and need to practice teaching skill to people and as they say you ever stop learning. We planed on heading to Creagan Coire Cha-no on the walk up the wind so a bit wild at time feeling like 40-50mph but we battled are way on. Getting to the top on the crag I found out the hard way use you need to check you have done things up tight. I had lost 2 bolts out on my axes.

Fighting the wind

Something missing here?!?!

So after some words to myself and say sorry (some many times). Change in place to head to try do snow anchors on the walk back to the mighty Ciste crag. This sadly did not work out as the snow where we planed to do it was winds slab. So moving on to Ciste crag where we go on and practice tying using fig 8s and placing pegs. There where lots on groups from Glenmore Lodge the Coire too. We pland to have a bit of food and find a place to do snow anchors after but the day got cut short so I could get a lift home.

James on the lead with Lou

Groups about

In all a great 2 days out climbing if a bit of a mess up on my part. Now time to find from the winter storms and get ready for the Strathpuffer this coming weekend it looking like it going to be a fun time.

Wild Day

So again head over east to get out climbing in Cairngorms with Ewan and Will. As alway the planed change from climbing to walking/climbing. As the wind was blowin' a hooley!!!. We decided to head up Fiacaill Ridge and them see how it was on the tops. On the way in we could see that the rain had done the day before making some crags looking a bit black. On the ridge was fun with the gusts of wind making the walking interesting. The climbing was great we picked are own was up bit. Getting to the top was wind but not was much as we thought it might have been. We chose to head down back Choire Chais as it would keep the wind and snow to are backs. Good if a bit wild day had. Nice to be getting back into things.

How are thing looking?

Heading up the Ridge

Looking back

Getting to the climbing and the wind

Will going his way on the climbing

Will enjoy it

Ewan enjoying too

On the way back down Chorie Chais

First winter day

Had a great day out with Brodie. Head over east to Caringorm. Was going to head in to do Hidden Chimney but thought it was looking a bit black. So changed plans to head to Coire an Lochain and see what was there to do. Looking at Sidewinder but did not like the look of the snow below the climb. So end up on Iron Butterfly. The climbing a good fun and the tuff are nice a frozen. There was one wee cruxy. People where on Savage Slit and I think Prore or Fallout Corner. After the climb we head back on the into Coire an t'Sneachda for the walk of and come done some good hard snow. The anlke feet good for most of the day a got a bit painful on the walk out of the Coire but feel pretty good today. A good start to the winter hope there is more like this.

Looking in to Coire an t'Sneachda

Teams on Savage Slit and I think Prore or Fallout Corner 

What to do next

Heading into Coire an t'Sneachda 

Coire an t'Sneachda 

Walk to the cafe

Traffic on the road 

Climbing over in Cairngorms

Was over in Cairngorms last week for 4 days as part of the UHI Cairngorms Residential 2014. Got out climbing for 3 days with Ewan for great climbing in Coire an t'Sneachda. There was still lots of snow about so that meant most of the first pitches were easy and the gear needed a bit of digging to find. Though we got great beater from Alan, Scott and Andy on what routes would be in good condition to get done. On the first day we headed out to to Mess of Pottage. There we got on Hidden Chimney Direct, the first pitch not being the IV more of a III. Ewan led the first pitch and I got the chimney at the end and nice snow run out to the top.

Well banked out first pitch

© Ewan McKay

Scott heading up to Hidden Chimney with Kate and Simon

Next up was Opening Break again banked out so more of a I/II, then the IV 5

Opening Break

Snowy top out

The next day we headed back, looking to do something a bit harder. First up was Yukon Jack. This time I won the Paper, Rock Scissors and had the first lead. More snow run outs and digging for gear. Was happy to have a 60m ropes to make the most to find belay. Ewan then had to swim up some not nice snow and get us to the top.

Yukon Jack

After this it we headed back down to where we were looking to do The Message but there were teams still on it. So we went for Honeypot instead. Had a great first pitch with great moves up and still lots of snow.

First Pitch Honeypot © Ewan McKay

Ewan then had a crux pitch. Which he saw off with some happy shouting as he made the moves. Then it was soon my turn to head up. The move round the roof was great. A bit jealous that Ewan got the pitch but till great to climb.

Head out on honeypot second pitch

On the 3rd day the weather crapped out and we planned to go for a walk over to  Hell's Lum. On the walk into Coire an t'Sneachda we had a change in plan and decided to make a snowman. So took the best part of 2 hours to make the biggest snowman. Alan and his team show up to do a bit of snow holes.

Hiding from the rain

Look what we made!!

Snowman

On the last day we head in with lots of plans. Thinking of climbing Original Summer Route, Doctor's Choice and Patey's Route. Getting into the Coire we found teams on or gearing up. So change in plan and headed up Fingers Ridge. As the theme of the week has been snowy first pitches! Ewan had a long snowy run out to the belay.

Ewan running it out to the belay

Then I had the shorter but would say more fun top pitch. There was some nice mixed bits and it was cool going though the fingers. Then the was a short slab at the top, then the easy ground to finish.

Going thought the Fingers © Ewan McKay

Happy faces at the top

A great trip and a lot learnt from it. Great to have so much input form the instructors of what would be good to get done. A days rest then onto the Strathpuffer.